Everything about Lord Howe Island totally explained
» For the island off Solomon Islands, see Ontong Java Atoll
Lord Howe Island is a small island in the
Pacific Ocean east of the
Australian mainland. Along with
Ball's Pyramid, it's administered by the Lord Howe Island Board, one of 175 local authorities in the state of
New South Wales, and is part of the
Mid-North Coast Statistical Division. It isn't considered a
Local Government Area and is therefore
unincorporated (as is the
Unincorporated Far West Region), but is self-governed by the Lord Howe Island Board
(External Link
). The Lord Howe Island group was inscribed as a
World Heritage Site in
1982 in recognition of its unique beauty and biodiversity. The
Lord Howe Island Marine Park and
Lord Howe Island Marine Park (commonwealth waters) protect the waters surrounding the island group.
The island's standard
time zone is . During
daylight saving time this shifts by half an hour to
UTC+11.
History
Lord Howe Island was discovered on 17 February 1788 by
HMS Supply, commanded by Lieutenant
Henry Lidgbird Ball, RN, who was on his way from
Botany Bay to
Norfolk Island with convicts to start a penal settlement there. On his return journey on 13 March 1788 he sent a party ashore on the island. It was uninhabited, and it seems that it hadn't been known to any of the Polynesian peoples of the South Pacific. Mount Lidgbird on the island and the nearby Ball's Pyramid are named after Ball. The island itself was named after
Richard Howe, 1st Earl Howe who was First Lord of the Admiralty.
Many government ships sailing between
New South Wales and Norfolk Island stopped at the island, as did some
whaling and trading vessels. Some ships left
goats and
pigs on the island for food for future visitors but a permanent settlement wasn't established until
1834 at an area known today as Old Settlement.
Until 1974 there was no airstrip and the only way to reach it by air was in a flying boat from Rose Bay in Sydney that landed on the lagoon surrounded by the coral reef. In
2002 the
Royal Navy Destroyer HMS Nottingham struck
Wolf Rock, a reef at Lord Howe Island, and almost sank.
Geology
Lord Howe island is roughly crescent-shaped, about 10 km (6 miles) long and 2 km (1 mile) wide. It is an eroded remnant of a 7 million-year-old
shield volcano. The crescent of the island protects a
coral reef and
lagoon. The
Lord Howe seamount chain, defined by coral-capped
guyots, extends to the north for 1000 km (600 mi), most likely the result of the
Indo-Australian Plate moving northward over a stationary
hotspot (see
plate tectonics). This chain is one of a number of features found on the
plateau known as the
Lord Howe Rise, part of the submerged continent of
Zealandia.
Mount Lidgbird and Mount Gower dominate the south end of the island. They are both made of
basalt rock, remnants of
lava flows that once filled a large volcanic
caldera. These lava flows occurred 6.4 million years ago, and were the last volcanic events on the island, which has subsequently eroded to what remains today.
The coral reef, at 31° S., is the most southerly in the world.
Ball's Pyramid is a rocky islet located 16 km (10 mi) south of Lord Howe Island, and also the remnant of an eroded volcano. It is the largest of several volcanic
stacks that form islets in the area.
Flora and Fauna
Lord Howe island is a distinct
terrestrial ecoregion, known as the
Lord Howe Island subtropical forests. It is part of the
Australasia ecozone, and shares many biotic affinities with Australia,
New Guinea, and
New Caledonia. Lord Howe Island was never part of a continent, and all of its flora and fauna colonized the island from across the sea. Almost half of the island's native plants are
endemic. One of the best known is
Howea, an endemic
genus of palms (
Arecaceae) that are commonly known as
kentia palms and make handsome houseplants. Several million are exported annually providing the only major industry on the island apart from tourism.
Another endemic feature of the island are the Glowing Mushrooms, that can be seen after heavy rain. Found in the Palm forests, they can be picked and last for a number of days glowing. The glow is so bright that you can read by it in the dark. 14 species of seabirds and 18 species of landbirds breed on the island group, including an endemic species, the
Lord Howe Woodhen (
Gallirallus sylvestris) and 3 endemic
subspecies, the Lord Howe Golden
Whistler (
Pachycephala pectoralis contempta), the Lord Howe
White-eye (
Zosterops lateralis tephropleurus) and the Lord Howe
Currawong (
Strepera graculina crissalis).
A number of endemic bird species and
subspecies have become extinct since the arrival of humans on the island. The
Lord Howe Swamphen or White Gallinule (
Porphyrio albus), the White-throated
Pigeon (
Columba vitiensis godmanae),
Red-fronted Parakeet (
Cyanoramphus novaezelandiae subflavescens) and the
Tasman Booby (
Sula tasmani)
were eliminated by settlers during the nineteenth century. The accidental introduction of the
Black Rat in the 1918 shipwreck of the Makambo triggered a second wave of extinctions including the
Vinous-tinted Thrush (
Turdus poliocephalus vinitinctus), the
Robust White-eye (
Zosterops strenuus) and the
Lord Howe Starling (
Alponis fusca hulliana), the
Lord Howe Fantail (
Rhipidura fuliginosa cervina) and the
Lord Howe Gerygone (
Gerygone insularis).
Only one native
mammal remains on the islands, the Large Forest
Bat (
Eptesicus sagittula). The endemic bat species (
Nyctophilus howensis) is known only from a skull and is now presumed extinct. The cause of its extinction may have been predation by Masked Owl, introduced to the island in the 1920s to control rats. The Masked Owl may also have caused the extinction of the
Lord Howe Boobook (
Ninox novaeseelandiae albaria).
Two terrestrial reptiles are native to the island group: a
skink (
Leiolopisma lichenigera)) and a
gecko (
Phyllodactylus guentheri). Both are rare on the main island but more common on smaller islands offshore. Another
skink (
Lampropholis delicata) and the
Bleating Tree Frog (
Litoria dentata) have been accidentally introduced from the Australian mainland in recent years.
The
Lord Howe Island stick insect (
Dryococelus australis) disappeared from the main island soon after the introduction of Black rats. In 2001 a tiny population was discovered in a single (
Melaleuca howeana) shrub on the slopes of Ball's Pyramid.
Another endemic invertebrate, the
Lord Howe Placostylus, has also been affected by the introduction of the black rat. Once common, the species is now endangered and a captive breeding program is under way to save the snail from extinction.
Australian underwater photographer
Neville Coleman has a book
1001 Nudibranches - Catalog of Indo-Pacific Sea Slugs that features many photographs of various
nudibranches taken in Lord Howe' Island.
Over 400 fish species are found in the waters around Lord Howe including 9 endemic to the region. Over 80 species of
coral occur in the reefs surrounding the islands.
About 10 percent of Lord Howe Island's forests have been cleared for agriculture, and another 20 percent has been disturbed by domestic
cattle and feral
sheep,
goats, and
pigs. Despite a large number of introduced species that harm Lord Howe's native flora and fauna, feral pigs have recently been eliminated from the island, the goat population has been reduced, and there are ongoing efforts to control
rats,
mice, and introduced plants. A recovery program has restored the
Lord Howe Woodhen numbers from only 20 in 1970 to approximately 200.
Threats
According to the analysis in
Tim Flannery's
The Weather Makers, the ecosystem of Lord Howe Island would be threatened by
climate change and
global warming. The reefs would be at risk from rises in water temperature. The
Great Barrier Reef is specifically identified as being at risk to the
effects of global warming on Australia, and the same analysis applies to the reefs of Lord Howe Island. Cool climate flora and fauna would be at risk from rises in temperature, as those on or near the top of Mount Gower can't migrate higher to stay within their preferred temperature range. Many bird species are also under constant threat in the island as aresult of rats. The island's bird population has been signifigantly reduced by them and some species have already been wiped out because of rats.
Further Information
Get more info on 'Lord Howe Island'.
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